That was our vacation. Yes, we did all that stuff you’re supposed to do: beignets and chicory coffee at Cafe DuMonde, bread pudding souffle and brandy milk punches, getting too drunk on Bourbon street, jazz clubs with the trumpet right in your face, tipping your street musicians accordingly and clapping and dancing while you’re at it. We went to Treme and got gawked at for being the white kids that didn’t belong. We smoked cigars and tried to decipher clips of Spanish spoken too fast from men with tobacco leaves in their teeth. We ate po boys.
We ate way too much gumbo. We had it here, we had it there, we had it everywhere. And it all tasted like dark coffeed flour and butter and warm. The turtle soup was nice as well, though I’m still not quite sure about having eaten some turtles. I can’t help but imagine my college roomate’s pet baby turtles. (She had three of them and they were her children.)
This one time I was lost and I asked a cop handing out parking tickets to point me in the right direction. She turned slowly and stared at me with a look that said I’m not here and god it was so weird. I thought, maybe she’s drunk. Maybe she’s a homeless person who murdered a cop and took her uniform and her walkie-talkie and her gadgets and her parking ticket pad and now she’s just walking around playing the part cause it just seemed like a good idea. That’s what her look told me. Or maybe that’s just how she was.
I asked, “Is there a convenience store somewhere around here?”
She turned vaguely and nodded vaguely. Her eyes glazed and didn’t really make contact with anything.
I took my cue, said thanks, and walked on.
Two steps later, a cabbie ran a light at an intersection and he gave her the thumbs up and she said, “I see you! I see you!” and she stared and then walked on. She checked the meter on a car, stared at it and kept going. I waited, and out of curiousity, checked it myself. Expired.
I mean, what the fuck’s up with that?
There was one night that it got cold and Pat and I, in our infinite people-in-their-twenties wisdom, were woefully underprepared. He, being kindhearted and such, lent me his pullover sweater and just decided to go in a long-sleeved buttoned shirt since he figured he’d warm up anyway. I mean, the sweater was really a nice gesture and I can’t handle any type of cold, but when I checked myself in the mirror and saw the damage the humidity had done to my hair and how ill-fitting the sweater looked, I couldn’t help but see something all too recognizable on the street.
We wanted to go to Bourbon street without buying drinks from the bars, so we had bought a bottle of liquor and some mixers and I agreed to carry it in my backpack that just so perfectly fit the look. You know the look I’m talking about. Don’t play.
So we go down to the French Quarter (cause first we were determined to get some dessert from Brennan’s) and we wait outside for our table in a cubby in the buildings that I found. Pat pulls the liquor from my backpack and mixes us a drink while we wait (god, can you believe you can just do that on the street?) and we sip our drinks in the shadows and wait. People (tourists) walk past us and ever so slightly their paths bend away from us. They speed up to pass us. At one point, I’m leaning against the building, sipping my drink, and a woman walks past me clearly watching me from the corner of her eye. She clutches her purse closer to her as she passes us. She tries to be discreet but come now.
And you know, yes, it made me feel a little good. I don’t know why. I don’t enjoy making people nervous. But I enjoyed something about it, some measure of it. Maybe the control part. The advantage. Who knows.
I snorted which made me realize that I’d probably had too much already, and then our table was ready and we went inside and had our banana’s Foster.
This story has no point other than that before the trip, my head was all storming. I mean, just full of shitstorming. You wouldn’t believe the kinda shit that was roaring along all the time, just loud and obtrusive and all over everything. It was like I couldn’t concentrate on anything and then I go there and and smell around for the water damage (not a hard smell to miss) and count the number of abandoned, gutted buildings and the number buildings for sale and the number of buildings being renovated (an average of two of each per street) and it’s just __________________________________.
I come back here and everything’s so small. I come back here and people don’t say hello for no reason on the street.
On the way home while we were stuck in the airport, the airline announced that our plane had been delayed two hours and then later announced that it had in fact been delayed three hours because the original plane needed to be swapped out for another plane. And this one guy gets up, all huffy. Red shirt tucked in, navy vest, thin glasses with silver and white rims, a crew cut that just so perfectly shows off the rolls of fat cascading down his neck. Red face. A wedding ring on his finger. You know this guy. Let’s face it, you’ve seen this guy in church.
He jumps up and yells, “Liars! You’re lying to us! You told me that plane was in the air and now you say it’s being swapped out? Liars! It’s gonna be cancelled, we all know it’s gonna be cancelled.”
No seriously, this actually happened. I’m surprised the air martials or whatever didn’t pop out of the woodwork. He was just shouting at the staff in general as if it meant something. The staff just looked at him and said they were sorry but they were just telling us what they had themselves been told. The guy repeated the part about the lying. The staff repeated the part about the being sorry. Just like at the DMV. Just like in the “I get this shit every day” way.
But then the funnier thing about it, and yes this really happened too, was that I’m watching this red-faced guy in a reflection in the window and the next thing I know is he’s got people huddled around him in a circle. And they’re all talking together, clearly all ticked off about the delay, and they’re venting about the idiocy and everything, and huddling like they’re planning a mother fucking mutiny. No lies. That’s really what happened. Except eventually they all sit down and we get on the plane (I end up sitting elbow to elbow with red-faced guy whose knee, every time he falls asleep, relaxes and bears down on mine) and all we all get home and go to bed. Cause I mean… yeah.
So far since being home everything has been both quieter and louder. My head is quieter and my mouth is louder when I speak to people. I speak more often, more genuinely. I don’t know why, it just kinda happened. After effects, I guess. People are easier to talk to now, even the ones who don’t necessarily want to be talked to. It’s a little easier to talk to the teens at the library.
We listen to more music, and no matter what I do, I can’t seem to keep from clapping my hands.